Fallschirmjager.Biz Information Helmets:
Faking a Fallschirmjäger Helmet: 2 |
Continued from
page 1:
The helmet is removed from the ingredients after being left
for as long as you desire. The longer the time the darker
the leather becomes, so don't make it black unless you want
it to looked burnt!
You will notice the wear around the crown of the helmet.
This is where most wear is sustained as most paratroopers
will place their helmet down onto the crown. There will also
be wear around the rim where the paint is thinner and the
rim catches the terrain. |
Pic 21 - Note heavy wear where it
should be.
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Many replicas don't take into account that aluminium does
wear, so a good way to spot many (but not all), fakes is to
check the aluminium band. You need to find a corrosive material
and apply this to the band to give it nice ageing 'pits'.
I won't mention what I use but its available in most kitchen
cupboards! This can also be applied to the strap fittings
and the whole helmet if you want but avoid the decals or they
will come off.
So we have aged it pretty much as far as we can to this point.
We are trying to replicate a helmet worn over time, so the
best thing to do now is to leave it outside in the open for
approx. 60 years! OK so we can't wait 60 years, but we do
want rust to gather and ideally not just a light orange rust.
There is a chemical way to create deep dark rust but I won't
go into this process. Since we will be repainting the helmet
just leave it outside for a few weeks to start the rusting
process. Remember to dampen your helmet and dust it in salt
every day or so, paying attention to the strap fittings. The
weather also helps to age the straps and linings so turn it
over every few days also. The longer you leave it the better
the rusting.
Week 3: Once the rusting is done to your
satisfaction, then comes another fun bit, painting the helmet!
Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of the rusting before
I painted it but we'll see that in the final few pictures.
Picture 22 & 23 shows the application of the paint. |
Pic 22 - Helmet painted up in final camouflage
colour's.
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Pic 23 - Eagle side of painted helmet.
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Notice how the helmet has been given a new lease of life
with the fresh paint. Its all shiney and new looking, but
that will soon change. A point on paint, back in WW2 the Germans
did not have the huge choice of colour's or the technology
to make every helmet the same shade, so even genuine helmets
will have variations of colour's/shades.
Use deep browns, reds and apple greens and of course luftwaffe
grey and buy a good reference book to copy the camouflage
schemes. I use enamel based paints to give it a certain durability.
Mix your colour's together taking a note of the quantity mix.
I use approx. 3 to 1 ratio of dark green to black in order
to darken the green. You will notice the final touch - mix
in some fine sand to the paint mixture to give it a rough
texture. Many Fallschirmjager did this using sand, sawdust,
earth or whatever was to hand. I have gone for a Normandy
camo scheme - greens and browns.
Normandy was the last action this Fallschirmjäger saw,
after this he lost his helmet in combat and it lay in a ditch
near to the coast for several years. As you can see in picture
24 the aluminum has tarnished with the salty water and the
straps and buckles are all starting to rust. |
Pic 24 - Corroded aluminium band & rusty fittings.
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Pic 25 - corroded & rusty fittings.
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Picture 26 shows how well the helmet liner markings have stood
up to the ageing process. These will need to be darkened later
in the process as it is all to easy to see that they were put
there by hand. This is a good reason for buying a good quality
replica with markings already in place. |
Pic 26 - Liner markings still visible.
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The next picture shows how the helmet was re-weathered, although
it still looks new. The important point is that the rust on
the shell looks good. This was applied using three common household
chemicals and a blowtorch! It's starting to look 'the business'! |
Pic 27 - Initial re-weathering.
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Picture 28 below shows another view of the rusting process. |
Pic 28 - Rusting process with Luftwaffe Eagle.
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Picture 29 shows how the liner, which had become detached
is reattached using super glue or a similar glue. Use clips
to keep it in place whilst the glue dries. I kept it overnight
like this just to be sure! |
Pic 29 - Liner being reattached.
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After the liner has been fixed the final ageing can begin.
I use cigarette ash to darken the whole helmet, rub it in across
the whole outer and inner shell! Once this has been done use
decking oil to make a rich and deep patina. don't forget the
inner rim also. |
Pic 30 - Shell darkened with cigarette
ash. |
You may need to touch up some of the bear metal. Use furniture
wood stain and allow it to dry for 3 to 4 days. |
Pic 31 - Deep patina applied.
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Finally the helmet is complete - see picture 32 below for
before and after pictures. This helmet sold for £335 pounds
as a replica! So beware, its easy to fake them and even replicas
such as this helmet command high prices! |
Pic 32 - After and before pictures.
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